Vitamin C

Vitamin C

Vitamin C Benefits for Skin

Vitamin C is one of the most exciting, research-proven ingredients you can apply to skin. This water-soluble antioxidant is a natural component of healthy skin. When we’re young, vitamin C levels in skin’s outermost two layers (epidermis and dermis) are abundant, but as we age, these levels naturally deplete. Unprotected sun exposure (UV damage) and pollution can accelerate this decline, leading to skin looking and feeling dull, uneven, and less firm than it once was.

How Vitamin C Works

Remember that unlike many other anti aging ingredients, Vitamin C is naturally found in skin (mostly in the epidermis, some in the dermis) and it’s role in skin biology is well documented. 

Protecting from UV damage

Although Vit C is NOT a sunscreen but it protects skin from the free radicals that are caused by UV exposure. It’s been shown to reduce lipid peroxidation, limit the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines, protect against cell death.  All this means that VitC reduces many of the nasty effects of sun exposure.

Increasing collagen to reduce wrinkles

As you know collagen collapse is a major cause of wrinkles. Vitamin C regulates the synthesis of collagen and it does this by hydroxylating collagen which makes it more stable and improves the way it supports the epidermis.

Reducing skin pigmentation

VC not only reduces melanin production but it also reduces oxidation of the melanin that is produced. It’s also thought to reverse the conversion of DOPA to o-DOPA quinone (which is a skin pigment).

Forms of Vitamin C in Skin Care

There are many forms of vitamin C for skin, and while they all have antioxidant benefits, some types of vitamin C work better in skin care formulas than others.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: is a form of vitamin C, technically a salt, It's notably less potent than the more commonly used form, l-ascorbic acid.

Retinyl Ascorbate: is an ester of vitamin A (retinoic acid) and vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that functions as an antioxidant that seems to have a particular affinity for skin and its lipids, making it an effective topical option for improving skin's defense against environmental damage. This mix also shows greater stability in skin than when retinol or vitamin C are used alone.

Ascorbyl Palmitate: is an ester formed from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid creating a fat-soluble form of vitamin C.

L-ascorbic Acid Ascorbic Acid: also known as L-ascorbic acid—has the most skin-related research of any form of vitamin C. When properly formulated at a pH of less than 4 (2.6-3.2 is the ideal range), this form helps create younger-looking, firmer-feeling skin while fading signs of uneven skin tone and spots. It is known to boost collagen production as well as fending off photo-ageing as well as helping  the skin’s surface defend itself from free radicals and external stressors.

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is what maybe considered a next generation Vitamin C derivative. It is a highly stable(both in water and oil) non-irritating, patented derivative. Ethyl ascorbic acid is the most effective among the three in boosting collagen synthesis and lightening skin, with over 80% metabolized to pure L-ascorbic acid.


Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: is a very stable, oil-soluble Vitamin C ester which has anti-oxidant activity, inhibiting lipid peroxidation. Topical use can mitigate the damaging effects of UV exposure. ... Unlike ascorbic acid, it will not exfoliate or irritate skin.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP): is a water-soluble powder, non-irritating, stable derivative of Vitamin C. A precursor of vitamin C. It achieves a constant delivery of vitamin C into the skin and has antioxidative effects

Ascorbyl Glucoside:.is a water stable form of vitamin C combined with glucose. When properly formulated and absorbed into skin, it breaks down to ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C).

Topical Vit. C is largely safe to use on a daily basis for long durations. It can safely be used in conjunction with other common topical anti-ageing agents such as sunscreens, tretinoin, other antioxidants and AHAs such as glycolic acid. Care must be taken while applying Vit. C around the eye

Vitamin C Skin Products

Research shows that high strengths of vitamin C (10% and higher - typically found in targeted treatments or serums) are particularly effective and provide a host of benefits for skin. If your skin looks dull or its tone is uneven, regardless of your skin type, a lightweight liquid 15% Vit C Booster is ideal for layering. If stubborn dark spots are more of your concern, a richer-textured 25% Vit C treatment works great for delivery into skin wherever discolorations and dullness are noticeable.

Lower concentrations of vitamin C are good for your skin as well, providing cumulative benefits in leave-on products such as moisturizers, eye creams, and serums. In fact, research has shown that concentrations as low as 0.6% provide antioxidant and anti-aging benefits to skin. Lower strengths of vitamin C also help enhance the benefits of other youth-preserving ingredients such as retinol and ceramides.

   When and How to Use Vitamin C in Your Skin Care Routine

All forms of vitamin C mix well and layer with other skin care ingredients, including exfoliating acids and other vitamins and antioxidants, such as retinol and niacinamide.

Vitamin C can be used twice daily, both morning and night. After cleansing, toning and exfoliating, apply the rest of your products in order from thinnest to thickest texture (commonly: serum, moisturizer, treatments). During the day, always finish with a moisturizer with broad-spectrum SPF 30 or greater.

Finding The Best Products

1. Ask for Ascorbic Acid

This much is clear: of all the Vitamin C derivatives, Ascorbic Acid has the best data to prove that it really works for all three main functions. So, if possible, why wouldn’t you use AA?

That doesn’t mean that ANY product with AA on the label will be best. There are other factors at play…Which brings us to tip #2…

2. Concentrate on the concentration

So how much Ascorbic Acid should a product contain?

The maximum skin absorption occurs at 20%. Higher concentrations actually have less absorption. Which is good since high concentrations are also more irritating.

Should you go lower? The proven range for vitamin C effectiveness is generally between 0.3% and 10%. 0.3 is a LONG way from the maximum absorption of 20% so that seems low.

If you can stand the irritation, 10% or even 15% should give better absorption.

3. Watch out for water

Ascorbic Acid can begin to oxide (which causes it to be used up) as soon as it’s dissolved in water. Look for products where water is NOT one of the first ingredients. That gives you a better chance of finding a product that will really work. That means looks for serums instead of cream based products.

Also, if water is present, look for products that use stabilizing agents – Paula’s Choice is good for this.

4.  Look for low pH

As we noted, Ascorbic Acid is unstable above 3.5 or so. Look for low pH products. Of course pH is only meaningful if water is present so it’s less of an issue in the kinds of water free formulas we just discussed.

5. Purchase proper packaging

Any Vitamin C ingredient must be properly packaged to protect it from excess light and air as it will break down over time if routinely exposed to them. If you want to get the best possible results from your Vit C serum or moisturizer it needs to be in an opaque, air-restrictive bottle or pump container to help ensure the ingredients remain stable. A vitamin C cream that comes in a jar, unfortunately, won’t remain effective for long.

NOTE

Watch out for irritation

As we said, Ascorbic Acid can cause redness and stinging. Be prepared to switch to another type if irritation is to great. The alternative may be less effective but you’ll be likely to use it more often if it’s gentle to your skin.